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Information & Tips    

CONTAINER & HANGING BASKET CARE

Without a doubt, container gardening is one of the greatest ways to add color around our homes. Below are several tips you can use to keep your combination plantings looking great all season long.

  1. Water is key. Since container plantings and hanging baskets are above ground, their roots dry out much faster than if they were planted. Never, let your soil become “bone” dry. When your soil dries to the point of being almost dry, water THOROUGHLY. You know you watered correctly when some drains out the bottom of the pot.

  2. Plants are like people…they LOVE food. To encourage new growth and an abundance of blooms, we recommend that you use controlled release fertilizer (like Osmocoat) mixed in the soil when you initially plant. In addition, use water soluble plant food (like Miracle Grow) a minimum of once every 7-10 days.

  3. Many plants will benefit from a periodic trimming. While it may seem harsh, this is an excellent way to encourage new growth AND blooms. On average, you should trim your containers 2-3 times per season.

  4. Remove dead leaves and old blooms once a week to keep plants looking fresh.

  5. IN CASE OF EMERGENCY! If for any reason your plants get really dry and appear crispy…move to a shady location and water immediately. Many times, your plants will look much better in 8-10 hours. If this happens, it may be an ideal time to trim back your plant in an effort to encourage new growth and blooms.

 

PERENNIAL PLANT OF THE YEAR SELECTIONS

Every year, the Perennial Plant Association promotes the use of perennials in the landscape and selects one perennial they consider to be “Plant of the Year.” We would highly recommend that you consider growing the below varieties in your own landscaping. Selections are based on the following attributes:

• Suitable for a wide range of climates
• Low maintenance
• Easily propagated (from either seed or vegetative cuttings)
• Exhibits multiple seasons of interest

PAST PERENNIAL PLANT OF THE YEAR WINNERS

• 2009 Halonechloa macra ‘Aureola’
• 2008 Geranium ‘Rozanne’
• 2007 Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’
• 2006 Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Firewitch’
• 2005 Helleborus x hybridus
• 2004 Athyrium niponicum ‘Picturn’
• 2003 Leucanthemum ‘Becky’
• 2002 Phlox ‘David’
• 2001 Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’
• 2000 Scabiosa columbaria ‘Butterfly Blue’
• 1999 Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’
• 1998 Echinacea purpurea ‘Magnus’
• 1997 Salvia ‘May Night’
• 1996 Penstemon digitalis ‘Husker Red’
• 1995 Perovskia atriplicifolia
• 1994 Astilbe ‘Sprite’
• 1993 Veronica ‘Sunny Border Blue’
• 1992 Coreopsis verticillata ‘Moonbeam’
• 1991 Heuchera micrantha ‘Palace Purple’
• 1990 Phlox stolonifera

 

INSTALLATION TIPS FOR… TREES, SHRUBS & PERENNIALS

  1. Dig your planting hole 2x’s the width of the root ball and slightly less deep than the depth of the roots (it is recommended that all new plantings are slightly above the surrounding soil).

  2. Gently remove plant from container by tipping on side and sliding out.

  3. After removing plant, use a sharp knife to lightly disturb the roots--This can be done by cutting 3-4 times approximately 1” deep down the side of the roots and 2 more times (as if you are cutting an “X”) on the bottom of the roots. This root pruning is an excellent way to encourage new root growth.

  4. Place plant in center of hole then backfill using a 50/50 mixture of existing soil and organic soil amendment (cow manure/ potting soil etc).

  5. After backfilling, apply 2” of hardwood mulch around all new plants to help preserve moisture, limit weed growth and protect roots during the winter months.

  6. Water thoroughly after mulch is applied using a mixture of root stimulator. Almost all new plantings will require 1 to 1 ½” of water per week. During dry periods be sure to thoroughly water all new plants one time per week (by “dry” we mean any 5-7 consecutive days with less than 1” of rain).

NOTE: BALLED AND BURLAP TREES & SHRUBS

  1. Before backfilling, gently remove all rope and twine from the root system and loosen the top portion of the burlap around the trunk.

  2. For larger plants that have a wire basket, please do not remove. These are designed to hold the root system together until the new roots begin to form and will not interfere with future development.

 

DEER RESISTANT PLANT GUIDE

While nothing seems deer proof (without an 8’ fence or a pack of angry dogs), there are many plants that are less likely to become Bambi’s lunch. Below are the plants that we consider to be the best in heavy deer areas:
 

SHRUBS      
Barberry Birdsnest Spruce Boxwood Buckthorn
Butterfly Bush Cotoneaster Elderberry Forsythia
Hybiscus Inkberry Junipers Lilacs
Mugo Pine Potentilla Privet Roses
Russian Cypress Smokebush Spirea Sumac
Sweetspire Viburnum Weigela Willow
 
PERENNIALS  
Achillia (Yarrow) Agastache (Hummingbird Mint)
Allium Anemone
Aquileguia (Columbine) Asclepias (Butterfly Weed)
Baptisia (Wild Indigo) Bergenia
Caryopteris Convallaria (Lily of the Valley)
Coreopsis (Tickseed) Delphinum
Dianthus (Cheddar Pinks) Dicentra (Bleeding Heart)
Digitalis (Foxglove) Euphorbia (Spruge)
Gaillardia (Blanket Flower) Galium (Sweet Woodruff)
Geranium (Cranesbill) Grasses
Hellebore Heuchera (Coral Bells)
Iris Lamium (Spotted Deadnettle)
Leucanthemum (Daisies) Liatrus (Gayfeather)
Ligularia Liriope (Lilyturf)
Monarda (Bee Balm) Nepeta (Catmint)
Paeonia (Peony) Papaver (Poppy)
Perovskia (Russian Sage) Phlox
Polumonaria (Lungwort) Salvia
Sempernivum (Hens and Chicks) Stachs (Lambs Ear)
Thymus (Creeping Thyme)  
   
GROUNDCOVER      
Ajuga Creeping Thyme Lamium Liriope
Myrtle/Vinca Sweet Woodruff    
 

 

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1281 Granville Pike (Route 37) - Lancaster, Ohio 43130 - 740.653.2760
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