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Information
& Tips |
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CONTAINER
&
HANGING
BASKET
CARE
Without
a doubt,
container
gardening
is one
of the
greatest
ways to
add
color
around
our
homes.
Below
are
several
tips you
can use
to keep
your
combination
plantings
looking
great
all
season
long.
-
Water
is
key.
Since
container
plantings
and
hanging
baskets
are
above
ground,
their
roots
dry
out
much
faster
than
if
they
were
planted.
Never,
let
your
soil
become
“bone”
dry.
When
your
soil
dries
to
the
point
of
being
almost
dry,
water
THOROUGHLY.
You
know
you
watered
correctly
when
some
drains
out
the
bottom
of
the
pot.
-
Plants
are
like
people…they
LOVE
food.
To
encourage
new
growth
and
an
abundance
of
blooms,
we
recommend
that
you
use
controlled
release
fertilizer
(like
Osmocoat)
mixed
in
the
soil
when
you
initially
plant.
In
addition,
use
water
soluble
plant
food
(like
Miracle
Grow)
a
minimum
of
once
every
7-10
days.
-
Many
plants
will
benefit
from
a
periodic
trimming.
While
it
may
seem
harsh,
this
is
an
excellent
way
to
encourage
new
growth
AND
blooms.
On
average,
you
should
trim
your
containers
2-3
times
per
season.
-
Remove
dead
leaves
and
old
blooms
once
a
week
to
keep
plants
looking
fresh.
-
IN
CASE
OF
EMERGENCY!
If
for
any
reason
your
plants
get
really
dry
and
appear
crispy…move
to a
shady
location
and
water
immediately.
Many
times,
your
plants
will
look
much
better
in
8-10
hours.
If
this
happens,
it
may
be
an
ideal
time
to
trim
back
your
plant
in
an
effort
to
encourage
new
growth
and
blooms.
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PERENNIAL
PLANT OF
THE YEAR
SELECTIONS

Every
year,
the
Perennial
Plant
Association
promotes
the use
of
perennials
in the
landscape
and
selects
one
perennial
they
consider
to be
“Plant
of the
Year.”
We would
highly
recommend
that you
consider
growing
the
below
varieties
in your
own
landscaping.
Selections
are
based on
the
following
attributes:
•
Suitable
for a
wide
range of
climates
• Low
maintenance
• Easily
propagated
(from
either
seed or
vegetative
cuttings)
•
Exhibits
multiple
seasons
of
interest
PAST
PERENNIAL
PLANT OF
THE YEAR
WINNERS
• 2009
Halonechloa
macra
‘Aureola’
• 2008
Geranium
‘Rozanne’
• 2007
Nepeta
‘Walker’s
Low’
• 2006
Dianthus
gratianopolitanus
‘Firewitch’
• 2005
Helleborus
x
hybridus
• 2004
Athyrium
niponicum
‘Picturn’
• 2003
Leucanthemum
‘Becky’
• 2002
Phlox
‘David’
• 2001
Calamagrostis
x
acutiflora
‘Karl
Foerster’
• 2000
Scabiosa
columbaria
‘Butterfly
Blue’
• 1999
Rudbeckia
fulgida
var.
sullivantii
‘Goldsturm’
• 1998
Echinacea
purpurea
‘Magnus’
• 1997
Salvia
‘May
Night’
• 1996
Penstemon
digitalis
‘Husker
Red’
• 1995
Perovskia
atriplicifolia
• 1994
Astilbe
‘Sprite’
• 1993
Veronica
‘Sunny
Border
Blue’
• 1992
Coreopsis
verticillata
‘Moonbeam’
• 1991
Heuchera
micrantha
‘Palace
Purple’
• 1990
Phlox
stolonifera
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INSTALLATION
TIPS
FOR…
TREES,
SHRUBS &
PERENNIALS

-
Dig
your
planting
hole
2x’s
the
width
of
the
root
ball
and
slightly
less
deep
than
the
depth
of
the
roots
(it
is
recommended
that
all
new
plantings
are
slightly
above
the
surrounding
soil).
-
Gently
remove
plant
from
container
by
tipping
on
side
and
sliding
out.
-
After
removing
plant,
use
a
sharp
knife
to
lightly
disturb
the
roots--This
can
be
done
by
cutting
3-4
times
approximately
1”
deep
down
the
side
of
the
roots
and
2
more
times
(as
if
you
are
cutting
an
“X”)
on
the
bottom
of
the
roots.
This
root
pruning
is
an
excellent
way
to
encourage
new
root
growth.
-
Place
plant
in
center
of
hole
then
backfill
using
a
50/50
mixture
of
existing
soil
and
organic
soil
amendment
(cow
manure/
potting
soil
etc).
-
After
backfilling,
apply
2”
of
hardwood
mulch
around
all
new
plants
to
help
preserve
moisture,
limit
weed
growth
and
protect
roots
during
the
winter
months.
-
Water
thoroughly
after
mulch
is
applied
using
a
mixture
of
root
stimulator.
Almost
all
new
plantings
will
require
1 to
1 ½”
of
water
per
week.
During
dry
periods
be
sure
to
thoroughly
water
all
new
plants
one
time
per
week
(by
“dry”
we
mean
any
5-7
consecutive
days
with
less
than
1”
of
rain).
NOTE:
BALLED
AND
BURLAP
TREES &
SHRUBS
-
Before
backfilling,
gently
remove
all
rope
and
twine
from
the
root
system
and
loosen
the
top
portion
of
the
burlap
around
the
trunk.
-
For
larger
plants
that
have
a
wire
basket,
please
do
not
remove.
These
are
designed
to
hold
the
root
system
together
until
the
new
roots
begin
to
form
and
will
not
interfere
with
future
development.
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DEER
RESISTANT
PLANT
GUIDE

While
nothing
seems
deer
proof
(without
an 8’
fence or
a pack
of angry
dogs),
there
are many
plants
that are
less
likely
to
become
Bambi’s
lunch.
Below
are the
plants
that we
consider
to be
the best
in heavy
deer
areas:
| SHRUBS |
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| Barberry |
Birdsnest Spruce |
Boxwood |
Buckthorn |
| Butterfly Bush |
Cotoneaster |
Elderberry |
Forsythia |
| Hybiscus |
Inkberry |
Junipers |
Lilacs |
| Mugo Pine |
Potentilla |
Privet |
Roses |
| Russian Cypress |
Smokebush |
Spirea |
Sumac |
| Sweetspire |
Viburnum |
Weigela |
Willow |
| PERENNIALS |
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| Achillia (Yarrow) |
Agastache (Hummingbird Mint) |
| Allium |
Anemone |
| Aquileguia (Columbine) |
Asclepias (Butterfly Weed) |
| Baptisia (Wild Indigo) |
Bergenia |
| Caryopteris |
Convallaria (Lily of the Valley) |
| Coreopsis (Tickseed) |
Delphinum |
| Dianthus (Cheddar Pinks) |
Dicentra (Bleeding Heart) |
| Digitalis (Foxglove) |
Euphorbia (Spruge) |
| Gaillardia (Blanket Flower) |
Galium (Sweet Woodruff) |
| Geranium (Cranesbill) |
Grasses |
| Hellebore |
Heuchera (Coral Bells) |
| Iris |
Lamium (Spotted Deadnettle) |
| Leucanthemum (Daisies) |
Liatrus (Gayfeather) |
| Ligularia |
Liriope (Lilyturf) |
| Monarda (Bee Balm) |
Nepeta (Catmint) |
| Paeonia (Peony) |
Papaver (Poppy) |
| Perovskia (Russian Sage) |
Phlox |
| Polumonaria (Lungwort) |
Salvia |
| Sempernivum (Hens and Chicks) |
Stachs (Lambs Ear) |
| Thymus (Creeping Thyme) |
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| GROUNDCOVER |
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| Ajuga |
Creeping Thyme |
Lamium |
Liriope |
| Myrtle/Vinca |
Sweet Woodruff |
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